Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
